Design and Build a Bookshelf

Build Yourself a Bookshelf
Release : 23 July 2010

Field : Home Handyman

Focus : Construction Tips and Techniques


The sense of satisfaction gained from building your own bookshelf can be made all the more by getting a few things right from the start.

Here are 10 Hot Tips to make the job straightforward and hassle free.

1. Draw a plan

You don't need to be Da Vinci or Michelangelo to make a simple drawing for what you are about to build.  A pencil sketch is a vital first step to realising what you actually want; it helps you visualise the finished product.

2. Put measurements on your plan

Start with the main dimension.  How tall is it?  How wide will it be?  Once you work out how big the 'box' is, then you can work out the details.

The most important dimensions are those that affect others.  For example, once you decide the width of the bookshelf that will determine how long each shelf is.  The exact height of the shelves can be changed when you are building but the lengths will be what you design them to be.

3. Write the Cut List

This all-important step can make or break your project.  If you are getting the hardware store to cut the timber for you then you need to make sure your numbers add up!

Remember the Rule: Measure Twice, Cut Once.

What you need to think about with your Cut List is how the pieces will fit together.  In a simple design the ends of the cuts are all square, not 45 degrees.  That means that some pieces will be shorter by twice the thickness of the timber you are using.  

Why?  Well if your shelf is 1000mm long and you are using 16mm melamine then the shelves will need to be 1000 -- (16 x 2) = 968mm because 968 + 32 = 1000, right.

Also, think about how your finished piece will look.  If the sides go all the way to the top then you will only have screws in the sides, which is usually good.  However, what does the top look like?  Are you using laminate and can cover the top edge with a nice strip?  Will it sand smooth and paint nicely so you don't notice?

4. Bringing it Home

It may sound obvious but take care when transporting your timber from the store.  All too often I have seen a tremendous amount of work go into building a lovely piece of furniture only to realise at the painting stage that one of the shelves has a great big dent in it.  At this stage it is not so easy to fix so avoid the problem in the first place.  Carry with Care!

5. Laying it Out

With all the pieces you need cut to the right size, lay them out on the floor so you can double check everything looks right and will go together smoothly.

6. Pre-drilling Pilot Holes

Most timber bigger than 12mm can be screwed without pre-drilling. However, the finish is usually nicer and there is less risk of damage if you use a pilot hole.  

For chipboard or melamine I would always pre-drill a pilot hole through the side pieces.  As long as you align the centre of the shelf with the screw, the shelves themselves do not usually need a pilot hole.

To give a really pro finish, countersink the holes by hand using an oversized drill bit.

Method: If you are using 6 gauge, 45mm particleboard screws in 16mm board, for example, then drill a 3mm pilot hole and use an 8mm drill bit to countersink for the head of the screws.

Still a novice carpenter?  There are some great books available to show you the basics of carpentry and D.I.Y. Handyman work.

7. Putting it Together

The old fashioned way to get a screw in a piece of wood was to use a screwdriver!  Like using any hand tool this is a bit of a practiced art.  

I strongly recommend you beg, borrow or steel a cordless screwdriver or as a second option a cordless drill.  Driving a screw at a steady pace into a piece of wood will give the best hold.  That said, the example shown below was pre-drilled but hand screwed.  (The cordless drill showed up a couple of days later!)

On a cordless drill, set the torque setting to one of the lowest settings to start with.  

On my Bosch cordless with settings that range from 1 to 14, I would start on a setting of 3.  Ideally the torque setting should drive the screw all the way in and when the head of the screw is almost all the way home.  

It depends on the wood, the size of the screw and the size of the pilot hole but I often found that torque setting of 7 or 8 would give the best result. The last quarter turn can be done by hand (yes, using a screwdriver!) to avoid over-tightening.

8. Preparing the Finish

If you have chosen dressed timber to start with that makes this step a breeze.  A simple light sand by hand using a cork block or similar sanding block is all that is required before painting.

Wipe the whole cabinet with a damp cloth before applying any finish.

9. Coatings and Colour

When you plan to paint your bookshelf with a solid colour it is usually best to use an undercoat first.  This helps the paint stick.  Even if the paint job looks good to start with, it will only be a matter of months before the chips and other signs of wear and tear will become obvious.

Good preparation is vital to a lasting finish.

Making your own bookshelf gives you complete freedom over all the important choices; how big it is, how deep the shelves are and, some might thing most importantly, what colour it is.  Don't be afraid to try a bold colour first.  You can always paint over it with an earthy tone later if the shade of fluorescent orange you chose goes out of fashion!

101. Enjoyment

Sitting in a room with a piece of furniture you have made yourself can be a source of immense pride and satisfaction.  When it works out well you will have fans relaying the message down the line about how fantastic you are, 'doesn't it look good' and 'isn't she so clever' that it is enough to make most of us smile at least inwardly.

If it doesn't work then you can feed it to the fire and start again! 

Alternatively, there is usually a need in the student population for cheap, if not perfect, furniture.  At the very least you will recover your expenses to fund your next project.

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